Assembly Process & Usage

CHUTE MASTER Hydraulic Assembly Instructions   8/1/2024

                              Old Chute Rotation Assembly Removal

Step 1: Remove the Factory cable operated Chute Rotation Components. This mainly consists of the long black cover and the hydraulic cylinder assembly with the cables attached. Use Remove photos 1-7 for guidance on this process.

JD Chute Rear Left Hole and Fit with Gear

See Photos Gear 1, Gear 2 and Gear 3.

The JD Chute, Round Bottom Base, Rear Left Hole, is not symmetrical with the other 3 holes from what we have determined.

The other 3 holes are on a center distance of what we have determined to be 8.3125”

We drilled and tapped (4) 1/4-20 holes into the Large 59 Tooth Ring Gear and located the odd ball hole to the left of the stamped writing on the top surface of the Gear.

So make sure the stamped part of the Ring Gear is on top and the holes are orientated like in the photos.

Rather than asking you to file your 4th Chute hole like we did at first, we just moved that hole about .095” Clockwise to match the actual Chute hole location.

We also had to place the same hole in the upper left corner of the 3D Printed Upper Chute Ring.

The slot in the Chute Ring must be facing forward on the front of the Chute as seen in the Photos.

All 3 parts need to be assembled together using (4) 1/4-20 X 9/16” SS Button Head Hex Head Screws.

It is imperative that the bottom of the (4) Screws never extend below the surface of the Large Ring Gear or it will not be able to slide freely on top of the UHMW Lower Chute Ring.

In the 3 Photos, Gear 1, Gear 2 and Gear 3 you can see the bottom gear hole is off as that was the first gear we tapped with the 4 holes a symmetrical distance from the center.

In the Gear 2 and Gear 3 photos you can see we can screw 1/4-20 screws through both Gear Rings but we ended up needing to move the upper left hole about .095” Clockwise to match the JD Chute Base hole. Feel free to let us know if you come up with anything different than what we did.

Not sure why JD would have placed non-symmetrical holes on their Chute Base.

Chute Assembly

Take the Lower Chute Ring made of UHMW Plastic and place it around the Chute Hole as a low friction pad for the free rotation of the Chute.

Use the Lower Chute Ring photo and Upper Chute Ring photos 1-8 for guidance.

The Upper Chute Ring has a split in it which allows for slight bending and twisting to get it all the way down to the base of the Chute. You must remove any obstacles such as an Electric Spout Actuator or Actuator Mounting Studs that may be in the way.

Take the John Deere Steel Chute and then slide the Upper Chute Ring over the Chute to the Base. Then mount the Chute to the Chute 59 Tooth Gear Ring by passing (4) 1/4-20 X 9/16 SS Button Head Socket Cap Screws through the Upper Chute Ring.

You can then take the Chute Assembly and slide it down on top of the Lower Chute Ring.

Chain Install

This would be a good time to install the Chain around the Large Ring Gear before doing the next step or you will not be able to get the chain in place without removing the connecting link. The chain comes supplied as 40 links plus a connecting link. There is no Idler tensioner used. The Chain is tensioned by the Motor Mount which can be swiveled into place and locked in.

Chute Angle Supports Rear, Left and Right

Next you will be installing the (3) Angle Support Assemblies which prevent the Chute from lifting up although the Chain itself does a good job of resisting the vertical motion of the Chute. Some free play is fine but if you want less clearance I have printed several versions of the Vertical Support Blocks to give you a tighter or looser fit.

First, install the Angle Support Rear Assembly. Use Angle Support Rear photos 1-4 for guidance. The Angle Support Rear itself is bolted down using the same two holes that the former JD Hold Down Plates used. Use (2) 5/16-18 X 3/4 Flat Socket Cap screws passing through the two outer holes in the Bracket.

Then take (1) Chute Rotation Vertical Block/Slide Plate and fasten it to the middle two 1/4-20 Holes of the Angle Support Rear. Use (2) 1/4-20 X 1 5/8 SS Flat Socket Cap screws. You may need to grind the bottom of a screw so it does not extend below the bottom surface of the Angle Support Rear.

This Angle Support Rear has two 1/4-20 Tapped holes on the Vertical Section that will be used later to secure the Chute Cover in the Rear. It also is the Bracket that will absorb the shock of the Chute Rotation Stop that may periodically impact the sides of the Angle Support to keep it from over rotating.

In addition, we supply a SS Ring that screws into the 1/4-20 hole in the middle of the Rear Bracket. This should be installed after the Chute Cover gets installed or the extra threads may interfere with the placement of the Cover. We suggest you secure it in place using a SS 1/4-20 Nyloc Nut we provide. We find this Ring to be very helpful for keeping any wires or cables in place such as for a Linear Actuator you may have installed to operate your Chute Spout.                                               

Next we can install the Angle Support Left. Use Angle Support Left photos 1-4 for guidance. Use the same two 5/16-18 threaded holes on the left side of the Chute for this and mount it using the same Hardware that the Angle Support Rear used and also the same 1/4-20 X 1 5/8” screws for the Vertical Block/Slide Plate. There is also a 1/4-20 Hole in this Left Bracket and it is used to install a 3/4″ SS Standoff threaded 1/4-20 on both ends. The outer threaded end has been cut off and a 1/4-20 hole has been tapped in its place. It is used for fastening the Chute Cover on the left side using a 1/4-20 X 1/2 SS Button Head Socket Cap screw. If you look at the Bolt Head in front of the Angle Support Left you can see the Bolt Head Flange has been ground flat on the side that is very close to the Cover. We did that because the inside Cover Perimeter was sitting on top of that Flange and fits much better if you can grind that down a bit. Next batch of Covers we will correct that.

Next is the installation of the Angle Support Right. Use Angle Support Right photos 1-4 for guidance. The Angle Support Right is different than the Angle Support Rear and Angle Support Left assemblies in that we have made it all one piece by combining the Angle Support Base with the Vertical Block/ Slide Plate part. It uses the same Hardware for the mounting of the prior two Angle Supports but the two 1/4-20 X 1 5/8 SS Flat Socket Cap screws are not needed.

Motor Mount Plate Assembly

Use the Chain photos 1-4 for guidance on the motor mounting and chain tensioning.

The next Step will be for Mounting the Motor Mount Base Plate to the Snowblower Housing on the top right side. It will mount with the 1/4″ cut out facing down and towards the rear.

There are 2 Factory slotted holes in the Housing for fastening the Plate using (2) 1/4-20 X 7/8 SS SHCS and (2) SS 1/4-20 Nyloc Nuts. I suggest sliding the plate to the left until the screws contact the left side of the slotted holes, for best chain fit later on, before tightening the fasteners. For those who don’t mind drilling an extra hole in the Steel Housing, a 1/4″ or 17/64” middle hole can be drilled where the extra Plate Hole is in the middle of the first two mounting holes. This will provide extra support for the Motor Mount Base Plate assembly. An extra Screw and Nut are provided for this optional hole.

There are (2) 1/4-20 X 1.25″ SS Standoffs that need to be installed into the two 1/4-20 threaded holes on the top front right of the Motor Mount Base Plate. Use (2) 1/4” SS Split Lock Washers for one of each and (2) 1/4” SS Flat Steel Washers, for one of each, to be slid over the threads on the bottom of each Standoff. This will raise them up to eliminate a small gap with the bottom of the Main Chute Cover later on. In a later Step the Cover will be fastened and located by these two Standoffs.

Motor Mounting Swivel Plate

The next Step will be to mount the Motor Mounting Swivel Plate to the Motor Mount Base Plate. The Motor Mount Swivel Plate slides in under the Motor Mount Base Plate and is fastened by one pivot hole and two screws that hold the chain tension and pass through the curved slot into two 5/16-18 Threaded holes.

The Pivot Hole takes (1) 5/16-18 X 3/4 SS SHCS and (1) 5/16” SS Split Lock Washer and (1) 5/16” SS Flat Steel Washer to fasten the Swivel Plate to the Base Plate from above. On this hole it is important to not have the screw threads pass beyond the bottom of the Base Plate or it can contact the Housing and lift the Plate up away from the Housing surface. An extra Flat washer can prevent this from happening or by just grinding a small amount from the end of the Screw.

Then you can install (2) more 5/16-18 X 3/4 SS SHCS and (2) SS Split Lock Washers and (2) SS Flat Steel Washers through the Curved Slot and into the two 5/16-18 threaded holes in the Swivel Plate.

Hydraulic Motor Mounting

Take the Model BMM-50-U-B-U Hydraulic Motor and mount it to the Swivel Plate from below. Use (3) 1/4-28 X 5/8 FHCS (Fine Thread). The two Hydraulic Ports should be facing in the direction of the Tractor when the Hydraulic Motor and Snowblower are mounted.

Install the (2) FS6400-04-06 Face Seal Hydraulic Fittings into each Fitting Hole of the Hydraulic Pump. The end with the Larger External O Ring goes into the Motor Port and the Opposite End with the Small Internal O Ring is where the Hydraulic Hose Fittings connect. We strongly suggest re-installing the two Orifice Restrictors (M145979) which came in the original Hose Ends which went to the Cylinder for the OEM Cable Driven Chute Rotator you are replacing. We have found that without the Restrictors the Chute Stop moves too fast and when it slams into the Angle Bracket Rear the shock can loosen the Chain over time.

When you are ready to run your Chain Driven Chute Rotator you can connect each of the two Hydraulic Lines to the Fittings. Depending on how you want the Angle Lever to rotate the Chute, you can reverse the hoses to get the direction of rotation you prefer. I personally like to push the handle forward to go Left or CCW and pull the handle back to go Right or CW.

To connect the Angle Hoses using my preference, take the hose that comes from the Tractor Lower Silver Connector and connect it to the Motor Right Side Port as you are facing the two Ports from the rear of the Snowblower Housing. Then take the hose that comes from the Lower Yellow Connector and connect it to the Motor Left Side Port and connect it to the Motor Left Side Port as you are facing the two Ports from the rear of the Snowblower Housing.

Take (1) 9 Tooth 40 Roller Chain Sprocket and install onto the Motor Shaft using the 3/16” Key that comes with the Motor. Try to get the top of the Gear level with the 59 Tooth Chute Sprocket by sliding the Sprocket up or down.

Roller Chain Installation

Take the 40 Roller Chain containing 40 Links and feed it around the Large 59 Tooth Chute Sprocket and then around the Small 9 Tooth Motor Sprocket. Loosen the adjustment Screws so you can pivot the motor in towards the Chute and have enough slack in the Chain to add the Connecting Link. When the link is installed you can pull back on the Motor to tighten the chain and then secure the Pivot Bolt and the Two Tensions Bolts in the Curved Slot.

Generally speaking, when the Chain is properly tensioned, the Motor Mount Base Plate and the Motor Mounting Swivel Plate are roughly in line with each other but don’t have to be exactly in line. A lot depends on how the Motor Mount Base Plate was fastened into the Factory Housing Slots.

Cylinder Slots Top Plugs

Before installing the Main Chute Cover you can install the (2) Cylinder Slots Top Plugs that block the two Slots left over from removing the original Factory Cable System.

There is a left side version with an angle on the top to clear the left side of the Main Chute Cover and a right side version which ends up being covered by the Main Chute Cover.

Even though the Main Chute Cover goes over the right side Slot, the snow could still get pushed in from below and cause problems letting snow under the Main Chute Cover.

The Top Plugs can be tapped into place carefully using a rubber mallet. Then there is a Bottom Cap that prevents the Top Plugs from getting pushed upwards by the Snow from underneath.

For each of the two Top Plug assemblies use (2) 1/4-20 X 3/8 SS Button Socket Cap screws and (2) 1/4″ SS Split Lock Washers.

 Main Chute Cover

The Main Chute Cover ensures that very little snow and debris can enter from the front and sides of the complete Assembly. It is open on the bottom right side where the Motor is and there is a small opening in the Rear but it does a good job of protecting all the working parts from debris and protects any hands and fingers that should not be getting into the chain and sprockets as they rotate.

Carefully slide the Cover down and over the Chute and then try moving the cover towards the rear while getting the rear mounting tabs over the Angle Support Rear. There are (2) mounting holes in the Angle Support Rear.

Align the (2) right side mounting holes with the (2) holes in the two Standoffs on the Motor Mount Plate. And at the same time align the single left side mounting hole with the Standoff on the Angle Support Left side. Use (5) 1/4-20 X 3/8 SS Button Socket Cap screws to fasten the cover with (5) 1/4″ SS Split Lock Washers.

Notes: The Chain will rust up over time even being under the cover. Spray it periodically with a Chain Lube to prevent rust. There is an optional Plastic Chain available but it is quite expensive but it could be supplied.

You should avoid rotating the Chute either direction until it actually hits the Stop on each side. I do not know if the motor would be damaged by repeatedly slamming the Stop into the Angle Support Rear but it can easily be avoided as in most normal usage the Chute will never need to rotate as far as it can go unless you like spraying snow onto your Tractor.

Chain Tensioning

The Main Chute Cover has been improved with three new 3/8” Diameter Access Holes located directly above the three 5/16-18 X 3/4” SS Socket Head Cap Screws that are used to lock in the Chain Tension. This time saving modification eliminates the need to remove Accessories and to slide the Cover up and out of the way for tightening the 3 Screws. The Motor can be held and pulled in towards you from the side of the Snowblower while your other hand can use a 1/4” T-Handle Allen Wrench to fasten the three Screws. There are three removable Hole Inserts that can easily be snapped back into the Holes when done.

Chute Rotation Stop

The Chute Rotation Stop can be installed using, (2) 5/16-18 Heavy SS Nyloc Nuts and (2) 5/16” SS Washers on those two 5/16-18 Threaded Studs.. The Chute Rotation Stop must be installed after the Main Chute Cover but you might need to lift the front of the Cover a bit to be able to slide the Chute Stop over the two mounting Studs. I have been able to install the Chute Stop after the Cover is fully in place by doing some careful angling to get it in.

I created this assembly after reading about all the upgrades made on the alternate manufacturer’s version by their customers. The big things I did was make sure all the fasteners were stainless steel. And I thought the extra expense was needed for a full enclosure of the Chain Drive parts. I also did not think it was good to have Steel on Steel contact between the Chute and the Housing so I included the UHMW Lower Ring for that too. I did not design this with price as a limiting factor. I designed this with quality as the priority and pricing would reflect that additional quality. I need to charge what is needed to stay in business.