Assembly Process & Usage

CHUTE MASTER Electric 12V Assembly Instructions   2/21/2025

Old Chute Rotation Assembly Removal

Step 1: Remove the Factory Hand Crank operated Chute Rotation Components. This mainly consists of the Corkscrew component and the Chute Spout Cable Assembly. The Chute Spout Cable assembly can be re-installed later.

Bend Metal Tab Almost Vertical

Take some channel Lock Pliers and bend the Metal Tab near vertical like in the photos. This will allow clearance below the Tab for the Main Motor Plate and along the side of the Tab.

Your top surface should look like this when you proceed to Assemble the parts.

The next photos show the hardware for 6 mounting holes.

Holes 1 and 2 are for the initial mounting of the Motor Base Plate.

Holes 3 and 4 are also for mounting the Motor Base Plate but they have a dual purpose. They also support the Curved Metal Cover that goes on the Assembly last.

And holes 5 and 6 are the last of the 4 holes that mount the Curved Metal Cover.

Take the Motor Mount Plate and for starters take (3) M8 X 20MM SS Bolts and pass them through the hole positions 2, 3 and 4. Hole position 2 is a clearance hole so a M8 Nut will be needed underneath the plate to fasten that corner properly. Hole position 1 will need to be drilled and tapped by hand. When you have the first 3 holes lightly fastened for positioning purposes you should be able to drill the hole for location 1 in the next step. Best to mark the hole position and remove the plate so the plate is not damaged.
Tale a 17/64” Drill and place a hole carefully aligned with the middle of the corresponding slot on the Motor Mount Plate. Then carefully take an 8MM-1.25 Tap and thread the hole.

Take the Lower Chute Ring and place it around the Chute Base.

Then place the Motor Mount Base Plate over the 4 mounting holes and there should be a slight gap against the side that faces the Lower Chute Ring.

The Motor Mount Plate seen below uses both Metric and Non-Metric Fasteners. The Plate is labelled where the different Fasteners go so there is no confusion.

Gear Motor Install

At this stage you should be able to fasten the Motor Mount Plate into position only using holes 1 and 2 for now. The final fasteners that go into holes 3 and 4 will be installed at a later stage.
Take the Gear Motor and install it at a slight angle like in the picture using (3) M6 X 20MM SS Flat Head Screws.

Next you can take (1) 9 Tooth Nylon Sprocket and slide that down onto the Motor Shaft until it bottoms out. Align the two fastening holes with the flat side of the shaft and use a 1/8” Hex Head Screw driver to fasten the (2) 1/4-20 X .250 Set Screws.

Motor from below.

Sprocket Assembly

Even though we could next proceed to tell you how to install the 9 Tooth Sprocket Cover we will need to jump to the fastening of the Plastic Chute Assembly to the Large 59 Tooth Sprocket that will mesh with the 9 Tooth Sprocket when it is all inserted into place.

So you take the Large 59 Tooth Sprocket with (4) 1/4-20 threaded holes in it and then take the Plastic Chute and center it by eye over the Sprocket. If your Large Sprocket has (8) threaded holes in it, start by only using the (4) opposing holes that start with one of them in the Martin Label on the Sprocket. The other (4) Holes would be for the Hydraulic Chute Version. You will need to center 3 of the Chute Base Angle Slots over 3 of the Holes in the Sprocket. There is no Angle Slot in the Chute Base to match up with the 4th Hole so that will need to be drilled through from underneath the assembly after first carefully fastening the upper Chute Ring in place on top of the Chute Base. You will be using 1/4-20 X 9/16″ SS Button Head Screws.

Once you get the assembly centered and lightly socked up with the first (3) Screws you can proceed to take a 15/64” or 1/4” Drill and run it through the threaded hole from below the Sprocket up through the plastic base of the chute. You can then use the hole in the plastic Chute Base to thread the 4th screw into the Sprocket.

Upper Ring Screws 3 and 4. It is important to not overtighten the (4) Mounting Screws or they will tend to warp the top surface of the Upper Ring which will prevent it from smoothly sliding across the Final Covering Steel Ring later on.

Now that the Chute and Sprocket assembly is completed you are free to mount the assembly over the Chute Base and it will be sitting on top of the Lower Ring and as you slide the Assembly into place you will need to allow the Teeth of the Large Sprocket to mesh with the Teeth of the Motor Sprocket.

After inserting the Chute and Sprocket assembly you can loosen up the Motor Base Plate and lightly slide the two gears together so they mesh with limited free space between them. Ideally, you can get the view so one tooth is directly in line with the opposing gap and the tooth is not touching the inner end of the gap when you fasten the Motor Plate into place.

Now you can mount the Motor Sprocket Cover. Use (2) 1/4-20 X 1/2” SS Socket Head Cap Screws. You can push the Cover to the right until it lightly contacts the side of the Upper Ring so it helps reduce noises.

The final Step is to take the Steel Semi-Circle Ring (Chute Retaining Bracket) that came with your original Assembly and fasten that over the top of the Upper Ring. You will use (4) M8 X 40MM Screws. Two for the two Left Side Holes and two for the two Right Side Holes. You will pass the Screws through the Chute Retaining Bracket and through (2) 1” Long Blue Steel Die Springs on the Left Side Holes and (2) 1.25” Long Blue Die Springs on the Right Side Holes.

When you tighten each of the (4) Screws you goal should be to compress each spring just enough so that the Chute Retaining Bracket is lightly sliding against the top surface of the Upper Ring. This will help for smooth and quiet operation of the Chute Master 12V.

Recoil LAS-2 DPDT Lighted Rocker Switch

The Chute Master 12V comes with a nice lighted Toggle Switch for night use. The 4 leads are labelled for easy understanding of where to run the wires to. I was not paying attention one time and the wires started melting and smoking on me. Make sure to put the Fuse in line with the Positive connection on the Battery. We suggest using 14 AWG Stranded Red and Black Wires to go directly to the Battery and we include an inline Fuse Assembly. We also suggest using 14 AWG Green and Blue Wires run directly to the Gear Motor. The Gear Motor comes with Bullet Connectors so you might want to go with Bullet Connectors on the ends of the wires to the Motor. We suggest Ring Connectors for the Battery Connections.